Snabbvisit på Fuerte Ventura och underbemannade i Las Palmas

Jag sitter och skriver med lite vemod i hjärtat. Nej, det är inget allvarligt som har hänt egentligen. Vi har ju i och med våran nya livstil tagit ett litet steg från ett liv som präglats av materiella ting. Men.. jag kommer sörja dig, kära dator. Vilket ord som helst nu kan vara det sista jag skriver med dig. Egentligen övergav du mig för längesedan. Eller jag vet, det var mitt fel. Jag hade inte skyddad dig tillräckligt. Båten fick ta rejäla smällar i den hårda sjön på väg mot Helgoland och vattnet forsade in. Där låg du och blev mörbultat och blöt. I flera månader har du fått vila och jag har lånat Fias dator. Tills en dag när jag lyckades återuppliva dig. Med hjärt-och lugnräddningen och operationer har jag lyckats hålla dig vid liv några veckor till, men oxidationen har spridit sig till ställen som jag inte kommer åt.

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Oj förlåt, känslorna och tankarna sprang iväg. Åter till livet på svaj! När vi lämnade Lanzarote kastade vi ankar utanför staden Corralejo, på Fuerte Venturas norra kust. Vattnet var klart och temperaturen riktigt skön. Med snorkelutrustning låg vi i vattnet större delen av dagarna. Inte för att det var mycket att se under ytan, men det var kul att testa våra nya grejer. Timoty ska bli fridykare men sina meterlånga simfötter, så vi tränande på det. En kväll skulle jag och Fia in till byn och dricka öl. Från båten kunde vi se takterassen på Banana bar och vi rodde in med Dolly Parton. Snacka om entré! Det var ett riktigt soft ställe med skön publik. Det är mycket surfare som hänger här omkring, det blåser bra och det är säsong året runt.

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Timotys kompisar Simon och Beatrice som var på semester på Fuerte Ventura kom och hälsade på oss. De hade med sig fetaste godispåsen, sjukt gott med svensk lösgodis! Vi hängde på båten, badade, käkade lunch och hade väldans trevligt. Tusen tack för en superhärligt dag hörrni! När det var dags för oss att åka vidare mot Gran Canaria och Las Palmas vinkade de av oss på kajen. Kan tillägga att Timoty inte egentligen har besökt Fuerte Ventura. Han landsteg nämligen aldrig ön, utan spenderade all tid vi var där (hela två dygn) på båten. Så om någon frågar, kan ni avslöja att Timoty faktiskt aldrig har varit på Fuerte Ventura. Eller förresten! Han stötte iallafall i botten. Det kanske räknas? Första gången han drog på sig de där simfötterna, dök han ner och tog sats. Extremt taggad simmade han mot botten i full galosch. Han sträckte ut amarna framför huvudet, så exalterad för att lyckas stöta i botten att han slog i botten med händerna i sån väldig fart att han stukade lillfingret. Det blev blått och svullet och i flera dagar fick vi höra kaptenen gnälla över sitt arma finger.

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Från Corralejo till Las Palmas fick en riktigt fin nattsegling. Vi började vid 15-tiden och kom fram prick klockan 09:00 morgon efter. Det gick undan med en snitthastighet på nästan 6 knop. Trafiken var lugn, förutom någon märkligt vi seglade förbi i natten. När jag klev på min vakt kl. 00.00 pekade Fia på någon som såg ut som en julgran där borta i horisonten. Massa lampor som lyste, men den var fortfarande lång borta. Vi siktade rakt nästan rakt på den med det var en och halv timme kvar tills vi skulle nå den så det var gott om tid. Med vindrodret påkopplade vajar man lite fram och tillbaka över kurslinjen. Enligt den lagda kursen skulle vi passera den om styrbord. Problem var att vinden inte tillät oss att gå mer babord. Vinden snurrade lite även den med för att jävlas. Det ledde till att om vilken håll jag än korrigerade kursen siktade vi rakt emot det där åbjäket. Visst, hade kunnat gå en jäkla omväg på fel sida om den men det var inte så lockande. Det slutade med att vi passerade den med 1,5 distans (cirka 2,8 km) till godo men det såg ut som ett smärre tivoli. Det var säkerligen en oljeplattform eller något. Det hände en annan spännade grej på min vakt efter det. Spännande är förresten en underdrift. JAG FICK SE DELFINER I MARLED! Ett av mina största förhoppningar på resan. Det var fantastiskt. Tänk er en kolsvart natt. Himlen är svart, havet är svart. Det glittrar till längs båten av marelden som störs av skrovet. Du kan se vågskummet lite här och var lysa upp av självlysande plankton. Rätt som det var lyser ett spjut upp sig under vattenytan. Som ett stjärnfall i havet. Ett plask bryter det monotona havsbruset. Ett till lysande klot sveper förbi. Och ett till. Man skulle kunna tro att de delfinerna hade pimpat sig med LED-belysning och att de fotograferades med lång slutartid. Jag stirrar ner i vattnet och ler, nästan skrattar och gråter, för mig själv. Äntligen. De många delfinerna gav mig en ordentlig show som varade säkert 15 minuter. Hallelujah, nu kan jag dö lycklig.

Lagom till frukost väcker Timoty mig när vi glider in i ankarviken i Las Palmas. På sidorna syns två stenpirar som skyddar varsin marina, en containerhamn bakom farleden och en massa höghus med en sandstrand framför. Vi kastar vårt ankarna innanför alla svajande båtar, närmast stranden. Här får vi ligga för ankar med tillgång till duschar och toaletter för 13 spänn natten. Rimligt ändå, men wifi är det snålt med.

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Sofia skulle flyga hem härifrån för en snabbt läkarbesök, så jag och Timoty har nu fått klara oss själva. I en hel vecka! Man kan ju undra hur det har gått egentligen… Det har faktiskt gått bra! Vi har umgåtts lite med Fredrik som hälsade på hans och systerns segelbåt Aase. En svart Colin Archer som de köpte på Skoghall för drygt två år sedan och seglade hit förra säsongen. Vi har också kollat på en hel säsong av serien Black Sails, sett fyra filmer, sprungit, druckit öl, tvättat kölsvinet, tagit av mögliga etiketter av ölflaskorna, diskat konserver, tätat pensionärsbågen, tankat bensin, pysslat armband och fått skjuts av en ryss i optimistjolle. En ganska händelserik vecka.

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Två av dessa händelser skulle jag vilja ge lite extra uppmärksamhet. En morgon när jag skulle ut och springa, klev jag upp i ottan och ut i sittbrunn i full löpmundering. Hello, hello följt av massa mummel, hör jag och ser en herre i optimistjolle med åror sitta och vinka. Han viftade på och sedan förstod jag att han ville ge mig skjuts till stranden. Jag berättade att jag skulle springa i en halvtimme och det var lika länge som han var iland så det passade perfekt. Jag hoppa i den lilla jollen och han började ro mot land. Det är inte långt till stranden, max 100 meter, men han hann berätta om vädret, vart i Ryssland han kom ifrån, vart han var påväg, en mordåtalad skeppare, undrade om vi verkligen fick plats med all mat om vi skulle vara fyra ombord över Atlanten, motvind i engelska kanalen, besök av franska kustbevakningen för att nämna några samtalsämnen. När han släppt av mig på Aela igen efter springturen återberättade jag för Timoty, och han undra hur sakta ryssen hade rott egentligen om hann han få ur sig allt det där. Ja, det gick lugn och behagligt iallafall.
Efter att ha spenderat hela veckan mer eller mindre själva på båten bestämde vi oss för att vi bannemig skulle se stan och träffa lite folk. Vi hällde i oss ett par öl i sittbrunn och tog dingen innan till marinan för att låsa fast den säkert. För att inte lämna något åt slumpen hade vi googlat fram vart man ska hänga i denna märkliga stad. Glada i hågen bar det iväg mot bargatan längs stranden på andra stan. Det var långt att gå och vi gick vilse. Inget wifi finns att hämta så vi kunde inte kolla kartan heller. Efter att ha konstaterat att stället som skulle vara THE place to be inte alls hade livemusik utomhus som vi hade läst och istället var i stuk med Soft bar på Skoghall började vi tappa hoppet. TIll slut hittade vi ett hipsterställe som ändå hade en del folk och en fullsatt unteserveringen. Vi köpte varsin öl och när det största bordet i mitten av uteserveringen blev ledigt slog vi oss ner. Nöjda med vår placering, för här kommer vi garanterat få sällskap. Ett skämt om att någon skulle komma och plocka alla stolarna och lämna oss ännu ensammare blev istället verklig. Där satt vi och sjöng för oss själva tills vi fick nog av misären och knatade hemåt istället. Vilken utkväll!

Vi kan nu konstatera att vi inte gillar Las Palmas särskilt mycket. Vi har längtat så mycket till Fia kom tillbaka så att vi kan åka vidare till nya destinationer med nya möjligeter. Med öppna armar och ett blodig jack i näsan (jag råkade springa in i en kakelvägg, det är farligt att långsegla) mötte vi henne på flygplatsen igår kväll och med sig hade hon kebabrullar från Ceylan. Vilken lycka! Vilken tjej! Nästa vecka får vi dessutom besök av ingen mindre än pappa Bear! Han har nog saknat sina skitungar.

Ta hand om er! /Emmie ”faceplantar’n” Nilsek

PS. Jag har efter att första stycke skrev lokaliserat det huvudsakliga felet i datorn och hoppas därför att lilla dattran kommer överleva ännu ett tag. Thank god, i love you!

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