Helgoland tur och retur

En eftermiddag för ett godtyckligt antal dagar sedan satte vi kurs mot Helgoland. Helgoland är tysk ö som inte är större än 1,7 kvadratkilometer. Det ryktas om att på Helgonland är dieseln billigare spriten, sprit är billigare än vatten och vattnet, tja, det är ju gratis. En ekvation som inte riktigt går ihop och när något är för bra för att vara sant så är det oftas så. Det var ändå tillräckligt för att övertyga oss om att ta en liten omväg för att komma hit.

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När vi kastade loss hade väderprognosen talat om att det skulle blåsa 8-10 m/s. Det är lögn sa vi som tyckte att luften stog still. Det dröjde dock inte länge innan vinden kom mot oss i väldigt fart utifrån Nordsjön och byggde upp stora vågor. Försegel rullades ut, försegel rullades in, storsegel hissades, storsegel revades, försegel rullades ut, försegel rullades in, focken hissades, focken bärgades. Sjön var stökig, strömmen stark och vågorna tycktes komma från alla håll. När jag och Timoty var uppe på däck för att surra fast stormfocken skrek Sofia från sittbrunn: Det är massa fartyg i kollisonskurs och jag tror dom ropar på oss! Samtidigt som vi sjabblade med segelna hade vi drivit in farleden. The german traffic service som inte tyckte att vi hade nog problem och anropade oss på VHF:en: ”Sailing vessel Aela, sailing vessel Aela! Keep out of the fareway! AND STAY OUT!!”

Vi stöttade med motorn, vek tillbaka och gick längs med farleden, men vid något punkt skulle den ändå korsas. Vågorna växte och växte. Timoty spejade efter en lucka mellan fartygen där vi kunde passera medan jag kämpade för kung och fosterland för att hålla både kurs och mig själv på benen.

Efter vi korsat farleden hade vi rak motsjö. Vi kände inte för att ligga på kryss så vi stampade på med motorn i vågor upp mot 3-4 meters höjd. Horisonten försvann i vågdalarna och Aela skopade törstigt upp vatten med sin något överlastade för. Vi saltvattenduschades i var och varann våg. Nog för att våra sjöställ är vattentäta men när vattnet kastas rakt upp och landar i springan mellan kragen och halsen blir man blöt ändå. Det var blött, kallt och jävligt och för att hålla modet gick jag under däck för att byta till ett torrt underställ. Lättare sagt än gjort. Kläderna låg i förpiken som i grov sjö förvandlas till något som påminner om en mänsklig torktumlare. Så gott som naken kastas jag omkring därinne som en vante medan jag försökte klä på mig. Var sjunde våg är ofta lite större, så taktiken blev: 1 – 2 på med strumpan 3 – 4 – andra strumpan 6 -7 TA SPJÄRN OCH HÅLL I!

Det visade sig att sjävla gungandet i motvind bara var toppen på isberget. Helt plötsligt upptäckte Timoty att det rann ut vatten på durken (båtens golv) under underskåpen i pentryt. Han lyfte luckan i durken och upp flyter vår plastlåda med ägg. Stuvfacken i kölsvinet var till bredden fyllda med vatten, vilket innebär att cirka 150 liter har läckt in. Inte bra. PUMPA LÄNS! Som tur är kunde vi pumpa ut vattnet snabbare än det fylldes på nytt, men vi fick regelbundet turas om att pumpa oss svettiga i timmarna som återstod till hamn. Dieseldunkarna vi hade fastsurrade på däck välte och läckte, det stank diesel och gjorde däcket snorhalt.

Sofia som brukar ta piller mot sjösjuka hade dagen till ära inte gjort det. Nordsjön visade ingen nåd. Inte ens lite. Vid ett tillfälle låg hon på rygg i sittbrunn medan jag satt mittemot. En bamsevåg träffade oss från sidan och det var som att Poseidon lyfte upp ett badkar, kikade över relingen hällde ut 100 liter rakt över stackars Sofia. Därefter hade hon en pool innanför sitt sjöställ som som sagt är vattentätt, så det rann inte ut heller. En båtshake fattigare kom vi till slut in i hamn. Som grädde på moset var i princip alla våra kläder dränkta i saltvatten som hade pressats ner i alla möjliga skruvhål. Life is good tänkte vi, och gick och la oss.

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Projekt täta luckor och torka kläder satte igång nästa dag. Innvändigt förvandlade vi båten till en klädlabyrint och utvändligt till en verkstad. Varför vi inte hängde kläderna utomhus? Det regnade och luftfuktigheten var maxad. Det tog en vecka för kläderna att torka. Vattnet i kölsvinet hade runnit in via en gammal genomförning i den aktre ankarboxen, som nu mer är igensatt.

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Vi spenderade 5 dagar på Helgoland för att hinna med allt meck och lite sightseeing. Det är ett underbart ställe, även fast det regnade en hel del. Mysiga gator, grönska, röda klippor och vit sand.

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Det finns en drink som heter Orginial Helgoländer Eiergrogg som är någon form av nationaldrink på ön. Timoty var extremt taggad på att prova den så det gjorde vi. Drinken består av poröst vispad äggula och socker, rom, arrack, och varmt vatten. Ja, VARMT vatten. Jag och Sofia lyckades iallafall dricka upp våra, tills skillnad mot den klene kapten. Vi unnade oss också några bärs på ett soft hak och blev bjudna på shots av en tysk herre som knappt pratade engelska som vi försökte kommunicera med. En annan anmärkningsvärd detalj om denna härliga ö är att det inte finns några bilar. Det är till och med förbjudet att cykla. Däremot går sparkcykel bra.

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Efter Helgoland hade vi en bekymmerslös seglats till Spiekeroog där vi strosade runt i solnedgången och tidvattnet sänkte ner Aela i lerbotten så vi sov stadigt den natten. Tidigt nästa morgon seglade vi vidare mot Norderney, där vi befinner vi oss just nu. Vi blev stoppade av tullen när vi åkte in i hamnen, de ville se pass och båtpapper. På morgonen fick vi ytterligare besök två tullmän. De ville också se pass och papper. Inte trodde vi att vår första tullkontroll skulle se när vi förflyttades inom Tyskland, men Helgoland är taxfree..

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PS. Om någon pratar med Reinhart så ska vi hälsa från Norderneys hamnkapten!

Moin! /Emmie

133 reaktion på “Helgoland tur och retur”

    1. Ja, nu har vi testat vad hon går för och hittat läckor att laga så det är ju bra! Det gör vi 😁

  1. Herregud vilka strapatser. Men så jättekul att läsa.
    Hoppas att ni får lugnare seglats fortsättningsvis. Var rädda om Er.
    Kram Gunilla

    1. Ja, havet är mäktigt! Än så länge har vi haft väldigt lungt sen dess 🙂 Ha det gott! Kram Emmie

  2. Jättekul att följa er!
    Hade varit roligt att se lite rörligt material också, typ som videoblogg eller bara små filmsnuttar när det händer saker.

  3. Nu har ni lärt känna Nordsjön!! Hälsa tillbaka till hamnkaptenerna på Norderney, Jörg o Bobo, om ni är kvar där. Reinhard

    1. Roligt att läsa era berättelser! Snart är Herta på väg över Nordsjön. Hälsningar Peter

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