Om man kollar på kartan så ser det ut som att Boulonge-sur-Mer ligger helt ensamt, omringat av fält, skog och grönområdet. Backarna i staden är branta och många. Vi var extremt taggade på att se oss omkring, längre bort än vad gångavståndet mellan hamnen och centrum tillåter. Därför beslutade vi oss för att hyra cyklar och ta oss en tur runt staden. Väl på cykeluthyrningen hade de endast tre vanliga cyklar lediga och vi är fyra. Då fick det även bli en elcykel att turas om med.
Vi packade våra ryggsäckar med massa vatten, badkläder, smörgåsar och fika. Tokglada för att få sitta på en cykelsadel igen trampade vi iväg mot fjärran. Eller ja, fjärran och fjärran. Mot den brantaste backen! Fullt beslutna att cykla uppåt till stadens högsta punkt, för att där få en utsikt över staden och se vart vi kunde tänkas ta oss. Timoty hade fått äran att ta elcykeln första biten. Det kan han vara lycklig över. Medans vi svettades och slet oss upp, backe efter backe, kunde han lugnt och bekvämt glida förbi i full galopp och se lika obrydd ut som en slö sköldpadda på en tom strand på en paradisö i Söderhavet. Fast med världens nöjdaste flin på läpparna. Det var värt besväret. Vi spejade ut över vidderna av hus, åkrar och hav vände cyklarna mot det sistnämnda. Som om vi inte får nog av vatten. En brant, lång nedförsbacke slingrade sig ner från höjden och vi rullade iväg med en väldig fart. Halvvägs ner för backen tvärnitade vi intill en kyrkogård. Vi parkerade cyklarna och gick försiktigt in genom grinden. Gravarna tillhörde brittiska soldater från första och andra världskriget.
När vi rullade vidare satte vi sikte mot stranden för ett svalkande dopp och en fikapaus. Solen gassade på och vi njöt av värmen efter den halvt chockerande havskylan. Smörgåsarna med ost och skinka smakade fantastiskt. Klockan tickade på och så småningom begav vi oss mot backarna och staden igen. När vi cyklade förbi ett hav av åkrar fick vi syn på några blommar som växte längs kanten. Perfekt, det är ju midsommar imorgon! Två stora blombuketter trycktes ner i ryggsäcken. Innan vi åkte tillbaka till hamnen tog vi en sväng förbi en gammal del av staden. Den var omringade av en stor hög mur och mitt där inne stod en enorm kyrka, Notre-Dame. En mycket mäktig byggnad att fascineras över.
Nöjda med dagen kröp vi till kojs tidigt på torsdagskvällen för ladda lite extra för midsommarafton. Och vilken midsommarafton det blev! Dagen började med pannkakor, bubbel och snaps. Ja, Timoty hade minsann dukat fram OP Anderson till frukost. Ska det va så ska det! Det är trots allt bara midsommar en gång om året.
Mat handlades, flaggspel hissades, ballonger blåstes upp, Sverige-flagga gick sönder i masten, upp i masten, hämta fall, laga flagga, hissa flagga, slänga blommorna från gårdagen som hade vissnat, plocka nya blommor, knyta kransar, duscha, ta på finkläder, snubbla på båten för långklänningen är för lång, byta kläder igen, koka potatis, hacka gräslök, duka, baka tårtor, bjuda in båtgrannar. Som ni ser så har vi fullt upp. Till sillunchen bjöd vi in ett svensk par från en norskflaggad segelbåt som är på väg till medelhavet. Matjesill, färskpotatis och gräddfil. Och inte att förglömma – den obligatoriska nubben. När en till svensk segelbåt gled in i hamnen bjöd vi över dem på snaps med den klassiska visan Helan går.
Stämningen var på topp och även hamnvakterna fick smaka på svensk midsommar. Flera kom förbi och nyfiket undrade vad vi firande. Det franska ölet och vinet flödade fritt fram tillsammans med skratten. Vad vore en midsommar utan en femkamp? I brist på gräsområden i anslutning till hamnen fick vi nöja oss med asfaltsparkeringen bakom restaurangen. Rekvisitan till lekarna bars upp och vi satte igång. Alla mot alla i grenarna Potatis på en sked i munnen, Irländsk julafton, Pricka tampong i flaska och springa ett varv, Kasta stövel med en fender och slutligen Gå så nära staketet som möjligt utan att se. Den lyckliga vinnaren, mästarnas mästare, femkampens guldbärare blev ingen mindre än.. Jag själv!
Till middag grillades fläskkotletter i vitlöksmarinad som serverades med potatis och béarnaisesås. Det var det godaste vi någonsin ätit tror jag. För att ge det hela en extra fransk tvist avslutade vi kvällen med baguetter och brieost. Med ett stort leende på läpparna kunde vi konstatera att vi hade gjort det igen – en fantastiskt lyckad fest.
Det var inte alls lika roligt att vakna dagen efter. Nog för att bakfyllan var oförskämt lindrig, men sittbrunn såg ut som om ja, någon verkligen hade haft fest igår, och definitionen av diskberg uppenbarade sig i pentryt. Emma kröp upp ur kojen med ett rejält skrapsår på axeln och hade svårt att röra armen. Det där med att köra Irländsk julafton på asfalt.. Gör inte om det! Efter lite övervägande tog Emma och Timoty en taxi till sjukhuset för att se så ingenting var brutet. Som tur är visade det sig vara helt! Medan de var borta tog jag och Sofia tag i den brutala mängden disk. Det tog oss ungefär tre timmar. Minst.
Något sega bestämde vi oss för att kasta loss på söndagen. Vi var taggade. Det skulle bli vår första dygnsegling. Färden var 140 sjömil, uppskattningsvis ca. 30 timmar segling. Ordentligt stuvat, sjökojarna var redo. Vinden var ganska stark, 8-10 m/s. En stor, hög kaj skyddar hamnen och stranden mot höga vågor. Den gjorde nu så att vågorna utifrån blåste in i cementväggen, studsade tillbaka och skapade ett inferno av branta toppar som tycktes gå i alla möjliga riktningar. Vi tänkte att det skulle bli bättre ju längre ut vi kom, så vi körde vi på. Det blåste snett framifrån och vi spände fast våra säkerhetslinor. Just in case. När jag var uppe på däck för att förbereda seglet för hissning hör jag ett rop från sittbrunn: ”HÅLL I DIG!!”. Jag kramade om masten som om jag skulle kväva den för att inte tappa balansen. Vi hissade storseglet för andra revet, och rullade ut genuan inte riktigt fullt. Vi krängde på i motsjön. Det dröjde inte länge innan sjösjukan slog till. Den kom krypande på oss alla fyra. Halva besättningen hänger över relingen och kastar upp lunchen, vi andra känner oss dåsiga. Vi erkände oss besegrade och vände tillbaka in i hamnen igen. Bättre lycka nästa gång!
Nästa dag tog vi nya tag. Vi vinkade av våra brittiska båtgrannar ännu en gång som hoppas att vi inte skulle ses igen. Väl menat alltså. Sjön såg ungefär likadan ut när vi kastades ut genom hamnloppet. Men förutsättningarna var bättre. Ingen spya innanför vågbrytarna den här gången. Vinden och styrka var ungefär densamma, sydvästligt 8-10 m/s. Med motvind fick vi kryssa oss fram och allt gick relativt bra, vi vände aldrig. Däremot var det inte läge att gå hela vägen till Cherbourg. Att segla till Cherbourg skulle ta oss 30-40 timmar med den här vinden och vi skulle inte hinna fram innan den kulingvarning som hade utfärdats skulle möta oss. Att inte besättningen inte var helt kry var också en bidragande orsak att vi valde att svänga av mot Dieppe. ”Att segla ska vara kul!” som kapten brukar säga.
Efter 70 gjorda sjömil närmade vi oss Dieppe runt 01-tiden en mörk natt. Det var härligt. När vi kom nära de stark lysande gröna och röda fyrarna i hamnloppet slängde kapten ett öga på navigationsdatorn. På den kan vi se andra fartyg befinner sig. En stor passagerarfärja som var påväg ut skymdes av kajen. Ops. Vi tog några varv kring vår egen axeln för att inte hamna i kläm medan vi såg färjan, en stor fet klump med slumpmässiga vita ljus (däcksbelysning), uppenbara sig fram oss. Något trötta förtöjde vi vår prinsessa tryggt i hamn.
En av de härligaste sakerna med att segla är att vara så nära naturen. Inte bara så nära att du vistas i den hela tiden. Du är så beroende av den. Vinden bestämmer när får lov att segla, vart du får lov att segla, när du inte kan segla för att det inte blåser eller när du inte kan segla för att det blåser för mycket. Vår älskade allsmäktiga vind höll oss kvar i Dieppe i två dagar. Det var ett bra tillfälle för att få lite saker gjorda.
När man bor på en båt blir de mest vardagliga sysslorna heltidsprojekt. Som att tvätta kläder till exempel. För det första ligger aldrig tvätterian nära båtplatsen. Då får man sina 40 kg tygstycken och släpa med dem dit. Den här gången hade vi tur att det fanns väldigt stora maskiner, så vi kunde fylla två 18-kilos till bredden. Vänta ut tiden. Försöka torktumla skiten. Bråka med franska tanter som inte kan engelska. Trötta och hungriga får vi nog på eländet och släpar med de 40 kg semitorra kläderna tillbaka, extra tunga eftersom de inte är torra. Eftersom de inte är torra, måste de hängas upp. Tur att vi bor på en segelbåt, bara att spänna upp några extra linor och fylla både mantåg och skot med kläder. Himlen är blå, det fläktar lite grann. Perfekt, kläderna kommer torka på nolltid. Vi hinner knappt mer än att säga det innan något blött nådde Emmas arm. Det regnar, sa hon. Nejdu, sa jag och kollade upp på den blå himlen. Det är orimligt!!
Det var sant. Det gav sig just då ganska snabbt. När Timoty skulle börja med maten tog gasolen slut. Efter flera kilometers letandet gav de upp. Det blev pizza till middag i sittbrunn. Halvvägs genom måltiden öppnade sig himlen. Helvete, kläderna! Vi flög upp på däck och kastade in all tvätt i båten. Väl därinne fick vi hänga upp tvättlinor kors och tvärs. Det var en labyrint av tyg i salongen igen. Helvete, pizzan! Vi fick äta blöt pizza i labyrinten. Det slutande inte regna på 24 timmar.
Målet med att segla till Cherbourg var att kunna besöka Omaha Beach. Efter noga studerade av kartor, vägar och förbindelser kunde vår fakta-Fia meddelande att det är lika långt från Cherbourg till Omaha Beach som från Le Havre. Med väderprognoserna som stöd kändes det klok att segla till Le Havre, besöka Omaha Beach därifrån, för att sedan skippa Cherbourg och dra direkt över till England. En torsdagsmorgon grundade vi med gårdagens pizza till frukost och kasta loss mot Le Havre 50 sjömil bort.
Det visade sig att vi behövde färdas 90 sjömil innan vi kom fram. Mörkret föll. Motsjö, motvind och motströms. Det låter motigt, eller hur? Vi stod upp och spejade över kanten på sprayhooden efter båtar, men framförallt fiskebojar. Havet duschade oss gång på gång och ögonen sved av salt. Den svarta väggen vi stirra ut i skulle inte ge oss möjlighet att hinna väja undan om en fiskeboj dök upp i skenet av våra egna lanternor. Så vi var beredda att kasta oss över reglaget för att lägga ur växel och på så sätt undvika trassel i propellern. Skulle det osannolika ändå hända är det bara att hissa segel, vända med vinden, vänta på gryningens ljus och hoppa i med snorkelutrustning. Det finns tid att tänka ut en plan för mycket till sjöss. Denna gången behövde varken plan a eller b sättas i verket.
Klockan 03 var min vakt över. Jag slet av mig det blöta understället, rulla ut sängkläderna i stickkojen och kröp ner under täcket. Vågorna var extremt behagliga. Kände mig tyngdlös varje gång en våg pressade upp fören för att sedan rulla vidare mot aktern och låta skrovet tippa framlänges likt en mjuk fjädrad gungbräda. Det slog mig då att det lättheten jag känner kan bero på att de kroppsdelar som är i kontakt med underlaget har domnat bort av kylan. Det gör mig inget. Jag lekar med tanken att jag flöt omkring ovanför månen. Är det så här det känns att vara i rymden? Där låg jag och fantiserade om en astronauts tyngdlöshet utanför Frankrikes norra kust medan jag vaggades till sömn.
Två timmar senare väcks jag till liv igen för att hjälpa till att lägga till i marinan. Jag drar på mig understället liggandes och krälar ut ur kojen. Hoppar i sjöstället och flytvästen och föreställer mig att det går lika smidigt som när en brandman hoppar in sin uniform. Det är nog att bända på sanningen. Kvar i drömska tankar. Som på autopilot kliver jag ut i kylan, tar upp förtöjningslinorna ur stuvfacket och går ut på fördäck. Hoppar i land, lägger fast. Klockan är strax över 05. Emma och Timoty går på den obligatoriska reken. Sofia vaknar och ställer sig vid disken. Går hon i sömnen? Jag tar av mig mina blöta kläder igen och kryper åter till kojs. Vad är väl en dag på slottet..
/Emmie
Ni skriver på ett härligt, trollbindande sätt. Gillar att läsa om era äventyr. God vind och härlig segling önskas er från en mulen västkust i Sverige
Tack, kul att höra! Det har varit mulet över oss också, fulla sjöställ med mössa och vantar. Ha en skön sommar!!
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