En seglats över Atlanten

Efter att bott, färdats och levt på båten i sex månader och fem dagar var det dags för att kasta loss på riktigt. Lekstugan var över, vi skulle korsa Atlanten. När den soliga eftermiddagen började lida mot kväll söndagen den 13:e november 2016 lade vinkades vi av våra båtgrannar och gav oss iväg med stora leendet och förväntansfullt pirr i magen.

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De sista dagarna innan vi lämnade Kanarieöarna spenderades på La Gomera. Jag som hade dragit på mig en rejäl förkylning försökte vila upp mig för att bli frisk så snart som möjligt medan de andra umgicks med svenskbåtarna Resolut och Ladybird som låg förtöjda på samma brygga. Vi jagade wifi runt centrum för att ladda upp telefonerna med poddar och radioprogram och prata med nära och kära för sista gången på en månad. När dagen med stort D kom gick vi till affären för att ladda upp med färsk frukt och njuta av en sista glass. Med hjälp av Dennis och Catarina på Resolut planerade vi att lägga rutten lite mer rakt västerut än vi från början hade tänkt för att undvika ett stiltjebälte som sträckte ut sig över de lite sydligare breddgraderna.

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De första dagarna hade vi riktigt fina vindar och färdades i 6-7 knop och med den hastighet hade överfarten gått på 20 dagar. Med vindarna kom också stora svarta moln som avlöste varandra och bjöd på shower av åska, blixtar och hällande regn. Vid några tillfällen stängde vi av all el och drog ur alla säkringar, just in case. Badstegen som sitter i samma båge som akterstaget fälldes ner och fick inta rollen som åskledare. Åskan höll sig ändå på tillräckligt avstånd så det var lugnt. Innan vi åkte hade vi försökt koppla upp satellittelefonen som ett modem till datorn för att kunna ta hem väderfiler och tyckt att det verkade fungera. Men väl därute fungerade det inte alls. Så våran möjlighet att plocka hem väder fanns ej längre och det var inte många båtar eller fartyg som passerade och därmed hade vi ingen att fråga. Om vi hade vetat hur vädret sett ut efter en vecka till havs hade vi troligtvis kunnat följa vinden och hållit oss utanför det stiltjebältet vi istället hamnade i. I åtta dagar guppade vi omkring på öppet hav utan att komma någonstans egentligen. Eftersom vi inte har så mycket diesel gick vi bara med motorn i ett dygn ungefär. Efter en halv evighet med noll vind och cirka 20 avverkade distans om dagen träffade vi till slut den beryktade passadvinden som vi börjat tvivla på och hunnit klassificera som en myt. Efter 30 dagar angjorde vi Dominica, som välkomnade oss med fetaste regnbågen, och helt plötsligt kändes det inte alls som vi varit borta så länge från land.

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Att segla över Atlanten är något som fastnar i huvudet på folk av många olika anledningar. Det kan tyckas läskigt, fantastiskt, långtråkigt, äventyrligt, mardrömsliknande, a dream come true, oöverkomligt, lätt som en plätt, trygg och säkert eller fullkomligt livsfarligt. Det är inte konstigt att man som nybliven långfärdsseglare undrar över hur det egentligen kommer att vara. Hur kommer det att kännas därute? Hur rastlös kommer jag att bli egentligen? Vad kommer vi stöta på? Kommer jag att vara rädd? Hur ser vågorna ut? Vad ska vi göra med all tid?

En stilla natt. En fridfull natt. Stjärnorna trängs ovanför. Havet är i rörelse men utan vind blir de breda dyningarna blanka. Men det är mörk. Svart även som denna. Marelden visar ett spår efter rodret som dansar i på den släta ytan. Svängandes i en stilla vals. Marelden glittrar. Mitt ute på Atlanten finns en stilla stund. Den mest avlägsna av platser visar sin hemlighet. Förtrollar mig. Jag hänger över kanten och stirrar ut i det svarta. Jag är fast, återigen.

Jag tänkte att jag skulle förklara, men jag vet inte riktigt var jag ska börja. Vi prövar med ordet tid. Tidsperspektiv. Hur många gånger har man inte hört folk säga ”Vad fort tiden går!” när månader passerar och sommarn tar slut innan den knappt hunnit börja. Andra tillfällen känns 20 minuter stillastående i en bilkö på motorvägen som en hel livstid. Vad är då 30 dagar i en liten båt med fyra personer ombord ute på öppen hav? Natten blir till dag och dagen blir till natt i en evig cykel av makalösa soluppgångar och solnedgångar. Dagarna flöt ihop och det är svårt att urskilja vad som skedde på vilken dag. När vi satt fast i stiltjen gick tiden väldigt långsamt och det kändes som att vi aldrig skulle komma fram. Livet på land fejdade sakta bort och det var livet på båten som var allt. Såhär i efterhand kändes det som att tiden gick ganska fort ändå. Men visst är det många tankar som snurrar i huvudet, och det fanns mer plats för dem när man inte kunde gömma sig bakom datorn och teven eller vad man än nu brukar göra för att tränga undan tankarna när man har fast mark under fötterna. Det räckte ändå med att stirra ut över horisonten, på vågorna, molnen, solen, månen eller stjärnorna som alltid hade en historia att berätta. Alla problem man nu kan tänkas bekymra sig över eller fastna i löses upp och leendet sträcker sig mot öronen. Bedövade vackra är vår himmel och jord.

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Båten är konstant i rörelse och vaggar sig fram, sida till sida, även de dagar som det inte blåser på. Atlanten består av alldeles för mycket vatten för att de stora dyningarna ska hinna lägga sig på några dagar. Vi delade upp dygnet på dag 8-20 och natt 20-08. Det är alltid någon som har vakt då vi seglar dygnet runt, som är ansvarig för att hålla utkik, se till att vi håller rätt kurs och att segelsättningen fungerar. Alla andra hjälper självklart till när det behövs. På dagen har vi tre vaktpass á 4 timmar, och den fjärde personen har kökstjänst. På natten kör vi fyra stycken 3-timmarspass. När kocken har diskat efter middagen kliver han eller hon på första nattpasset mellan 20-23 sen rullar schemat vidare. Solen gick ner runt 19 och upp igen vid 6-7. Vi sysselsatte oss med att läsa böcker, spela spel, se på film, sjunga (läs skrika), dansa, ha musikquiz, tipspromenad runt däck, baka, titta på valar och delfiner, filosofera, stirra på stjärnorna, glo på horisonten och lyssna på musik, poddar och P3-dokumentärer. Nästan varje dag bjöds det på hembakat tre-fika. Kladdkaka, pepparkaksdeg och till och med saftsoppa med kokostoppar var några delikatesser vi fick smaka på. Vi byggde ett stativ till actionkameran av en båtshake så vi kunde filma valen under vattnet. Varje morgon öppnade vi varsin chokladkalender och varje kväll kollade vi på julkalendern. Eftersom vi inte kunde streama årets körde vi 20-årsjubileum på Myseriet från Greveholm från 1996. En fantastiskt bra julkalender!

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När vi hade kommit halvvägs hade vi halvvägsfest. Vi kylde ölen i det 25-gradiga vattnet, bakade en tårta och hade valbesök hela dagen. På överfarten fångade bara två fiskar som vi käkade upp. Inte på grund av att det var svårt att få napp utan för att vi tyckte att det kändes så hemskt att ta död på dem. I flera dagar hade vi sällskap av en eller två valar som simmade runt omkring båten. Vi såg några supercoola fiskar som inte hade någon stjärtfena, bara en ryggfena som den viftade med i sidled för att komma framåt.

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Visst var det lite läskigt i början när åskovädret gled närmare och närmare eller en oväntad squal överrumplade oss med en plötsligt ökad vindstyrka och tvär vändning av vindriktningen. Samtidigt känner man sig otroligt trygg. Vi lever i vår lilla värld, vår lilla båt och hon är stabil och pålitlig. Vissa saker rår man inte över och visst är man helt utelämnad för naturens krafter. Men det är det som är det vackra. Nu har vi haft tur och inte haft så fasligt dåligt väder men för varje tuff prövning finns också ett fint ögonblick. När regnet öste ner som en bred högtryckstvätt från ovan pressades de spetsiga småvågorna ner ovanpå dyningarna som blev nästan släta, fast som håriga av vattendropparna. Det regnet var riktigt häftigt. Ett av mina bästa minnen var en morgon när Filip hade vakt och han ropar ”VAAAL!”. Klockan är strax innan 07 och solen har precis gått upp. Atlanten ligger som en spegel och de rosa molnen speglar sig i havet. En val glider dyker upp ett tiotal meter från båten för att sedan som i slow motion glida under båten, rakt under oss i sittbrunn, och komma upp på andra sidan och blåsa ut luft ur sitt hål på ryggen. Solen som lyft sig över horisonten lyser starkt gult.

/Långseglar’n Emmie 

1 044 reaktion på “En seglats över Atlanten”

  1. Du skriver så jäkla bra Emmie.
    Hoppas allt är bra med er.
    Skulle varit kul att vara med er.
    Men jag hade nog gnällt mest.

    Hälsa alla!

    Med vänlig hälsning,
    Michael Swidén

    1. Tack så hemskt mycket Michael! Allt är bra, livet leker! Hoppas det är bra med dig. Haha, det är inte så lätt alltid. Alla hälsar tillbaka!

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