I Madeiras Djungel

Solen lyser, potatisen står i ugnen, soja bitarna står på svällning på spisen. Det kommer att bli en fin solnedgång ikväll, äntligen. Vi kastar loss från bensinkajen och beger oss mot Madeira, detta kommer att bli vår längsta segling hittills. Det kommer att bli en bra segling, solen lyser, det kommer vara stjärnklart, det är varmt. Sen kommer vi runt det där hörnet alla pratar om, ner med storseglet som vi precis hissat, reva genuan, på med radarn. Den där solnedgången är inte att prata om dimman är så tjock att vi kan bara se några meter framför båten. Maten på spisen kallnar, men vi får äta den ändå. Klockan 9 går jag på min vakt och de andra går och lägger sig. Vi kör tre timmars vakter nu när vi har en längre överfart. Klockan halv 12 kan jag inte hålla mig längre, sjösjukan tar över, jag kallar upp Emmie och hänger mig över relingen. Sen gungar jag i takt med vågorna nere i min koj med hinken nära till hands hela natten.

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När min vakt börjar igen klockan 6 på morgonen har vinden mojnat. Solen går upp och sen spricker det upp till klarblå himmel. Hela överfarten hade vi blåhimmel, stjärnklara varma nätter men lite dåligt med vind i seglen. Vi såg två valar, delfiner och fick oss sådär 6 fiskar. 4 av dem kastade vi ner igen då de var försmå, en fisk åt vi upp och den 6 kom till mig på nattvakten första natten. Vi blev översköljda av en stor våg från sidan där jag satt, jag ser att det kom något med vågen och tar upp telefonen och lyser på däck. Mycket riktigt där ligger den en riktigt ful fisk som har flugit upp med vågen, som tur var så var den död så det var bara att kasta i den igen.

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Efter 113 timmar så ser vi land i horisonten, vi kommer fram till ankarviken på Porto Santo och som att vi inte har fått nog av vatten så är det vi är mest fascinerade av just vattnet. Det är så turkost, vi har kommit till turkostvatten land. Det första vi gör är att klä av oss och hoppa i, det är varmt 24 grader. Kapten tar fram cyklop och snorkel och kollar till kölen på båten. Vi tvättar oss och leker som en flock delfiner en lång tid innan vi sjösätter Dolly Parton för att bege oss in till staden.

 

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Vi bestämmer oss såklart för att gå upp på Porto Santos berg, vi packar ryggsäckarna fulla med matsäck, vatten och badkläder. Vi ska ut på äventyr, planen var att gå klockan tidigt på morgonen men klockan hann att slå 12 innan vi ens börjat vandra upp. Vad är det som tar sån tid egentligen? Vi vandrar uppåt, det är brant, varmt och det blir tyngre att andas. Väl nästan uppe på toppen så sätter vi oss och ser ut över ankarviken och Porto Santo, det är en riktigt fin ö. Vi spanar upp mot korset på toppen, det ser ut som att vägen dit är mer klättra än vandra så vi skiter i det. _S7A9743 _S7A9724Vi går ner igen, men inte samma väg som vi kom upp utan en annan väg. Den lösa lavastenen bara går sönder under fötterna på oss, vi ska klättra ner för en liten bit och allt man tar i bara faller sönder. Vi får glida på fötterna ner för stora sand backar och när vi väl har kommit fram till den sista så ropar en gubbe till oss att gå inte ner där utan gå upp och runt det är för farligt. Ha, det finns inte en chans i helvetet att vi kommer upp den vägen vi kom ner, vi har glidit på fötter, händer och rumpa för att komma hit det går inte att gå uppåt. Så vi skiter i gubbens råd och gör det vi gör bäst, vi glider några 50 meter till och sen är vi nere, lite blodiga, med lite skrapsår men med humöret på topp.

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Vi stannade i Porto Santo i ungefär en vecka, dagarna gick åt att bada, handla lite, bara må gött. Själva staden var inte jätte mycket att hänga i granen, den gick man igenom på 20 minuter då hade man sett allt som gick att se. Kvällarna eller ska man säga nätterna gick åt att träna. Jag och Emmie höll på med en 30 dagars Challenge så varje kväll gick åt att göra burpees och annat kul. Vi bjöd också över Janne på Indigo och Elisabeth och Vim på Bengt en kväll för middag vilket var väldigt trevligt. Det är ganska många svenska båtar här på Madeira och vi hälsar naturligtvis på alla vi ser.

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Sen en dag så hissade vi segel igen och satte kursen mot huvudön Madeira. En kort distans på 30 NM, men som ändå tog oss 8 timmar. Det var dyningar får alla håll och det blåste inte tillräckligt så vågorna slog vinden ur seglen. Vi gav upp och startade Hjalmar. När vi nästan är framme så ser jag något som ser ut som ett väldigt oroligt grund. Men det ska ju inte vara något grund där! Det ska vara sådär 100 meter djupt. Nej, det visade sig vara ca 40 delfiner som lekte eller jagade mat så det bara skvätte omkring dem. En var så tokig att han hoppade på stjärtfenan. Delfiner gör en alltid så glad, det måste utan tvekan vara jordens gladaste djur. Vi ankrade i en liten vik för natten och dagen efter begav vi oss in till hamn.

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Detta är en väldigt speciell hamn som vi ligger i nu. Quinta do Lorde heter den och ligger ungefär 30 km från Funchal. Det är en liten by som är uppbyggd efter hamnen. Allting är sådär 10-15 år gammalt och allting är en stor resort av något slag. Det finns inte direkt någon affär men de har sjukt bra wifi som räcker ända ner till båten så man kan streama från internet. LYX! Vi hyrde en liten liten bil billigt och åkte på äventyr med Bengt. Först ut, upp på toppen. 1818 meter över havet, vi åkte igenom de vackra nordliga delarna på Madeira där husen ligger i gröna vinodlingar i backarna.

_S7A0157 _S7A0170Landskapet på den nordliga sidan är bland det häftigaste jag sett, väl uppe på toppen såg vi dock ingenting. Här var den 10 grader och vi var mitt bland molnen så vi såg varken upp eller ner. Men det var en upplevelse. Vi åkte ner till någon liten by och åt lunch, Baco do Caco, ett inhemskt vitlöksbröd som är fantastiskt gott, någon form av potatisfyrkanter med skinka och kött. Sen vidare upp i bergen igen. På den södra sidan har det brunnit, så det luktar och allting är brunt och bränt. Väldigt   att se så de har verkligen odlat någonting på varenda millimeter på ön, så man förstår att det är ganska mycket slit och pengar som har gått upp i rök. Till sist åker vi till Porto Moniz där de har naturliga pooler i lava bergen. Där hoppade vi glatt i och simmade runt ett tag innan vi trötta som bara den begav oss till det sista stoppet, mataffären. Vi handlade massvis och på hemvägen hade vi kassar i knät i baksätet och det var knappt så att vi fick plats, men det gick!

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Nästa dag så tog vi bussen till Funchal, Timoty fick sig en ny telefon då hans gav upp när vi kom fram till Porto Santo. Vi strosade runt bland gatorna i Funchal hela dagen, åt lunch i parken och gick till Blandys. Blandy’s är ett ställe som producerar Madeira vin, vi tog oss en tur som var väldigt intressant och fick två provsmakningar. Vi köpte med oss en flaska som vi ställde i fin vin skåpet och sen fick vi gå snabbt till bussen, springa den sista biten faktiskt för att inte missa den, det var ju den sista för dagen.IMG_2146 _S7A0215 _S7A0197

Helt utmattade så tog vi oss sovmorgon dagen efter innan det var dags för nästa punkt på vårt fullspäckade schema. Festivalen av Our Lady Piety, en extremt oklar händelse som äger rum i grannbyn. Vi tar bussen dit, kommer såklart liiiite försent för att komma med den båten vi skulle med så vi hoppar på en annan. Det är massvis med fiskebåtar som är klädda med blommor, det är hur mycket folk som helst på de här båtarna och vi förstår ingenting. Vi åker ut med båten cirkulerar ett tag. Bredvid oss åker partybåten med DJ och folk som dansar med blomband runt halsen, fan vi är på fel båt! Sedan kommer båten med Lady Piety på den, alla andra båtar tar följe, den båten lägger till och bär den här damen upp till kyrkan. _S7A0296 _S7A0295Vi andra båtar cirkulerar, det bjuds på öl, dricka och mackor. Folk hoppar i och badar, vi cirkulerar nog i någon timme innan vi sedan åker tillbaka till hamnen där det ska festas. Vi äter lite mer och sätter oss på en bar och dricker en öl med båtarna Indigo, Angelina och Isa. Sedan tar vi oss ner och köper ett traditionellt grillspett, det är sådär 1,5 meter långt med 1 kg kött på som man grillar själv på stranden. En mycket trevlig upplevelse och köttet var fantastiskt gott måste jag säga. Efter att vi cirkulerat festival området några varv inser vi att det kommer nog inte att hända så mycket mer nu. Vi bestämmer oss för att eftersom klockan är bara barnet så ska vi gå hem. Det är ju inte så långt, och efter en timme i bergen så är vi hemma igen. Safe and sound.

_S7A0325 _S7A0317Igår var det dags för en riktig slappar dag! Jag såg en hel säsong av Rizzoli and Isles, vi gick upp till hotell poolerna och slappade lite. Låssades vara på charter semester, lekte som barn i poolen och njöt av solen. Efter två timmar tröttnade vi och gick ner igen. Eftersom vi fuskat lite med vår 30 dagars Challenge så bestämde vi oss att idag var dagen D. Igår var faktiskt dag 30, men jag var på dag 26. 4 dagar att ta igen, det klarar man väl? Men den hade bestämt sig för att köra 4 dagar ben, det ska tilläggas att vi har kört två olika Challenges så det var dubbelt upp. Idag har jag extremt grov träningsvärk, jag ser inte fram emot morgondagen.

_S7A0346Planen var att bege sig mot Lanzarote idag, men eftersom det blåser ingenting och vi antar att det är ganska grov sjö så åker vi istället ut och ankrar i några dagar i väntan på vind.

/ Turisten Soffipropp!

1 170 reaktion på “I Madeiras Djungel”

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