Från Madeira till Lanzarote

Här sitter jag, ensam i Aela på Marina Lanzarote med en kopp ört-te. Vi dricker inte te så ofta längre för att det är så varmt, men nu blev jag plötsigt lite sugen. Sofia är på löprunda och Timoty jagar wifi någonstans.

Utanför Madeira finns en naturreservat bestående av ett par öar – Desertas Islands. Innan vi lämnade underbara Madeira sökte vi det tillstånd som krävs för att få ankra där. När vi anlände till Desertas Grande undrade vi först om vi kommit rätt. Det var bara en hög brant klippvägg, skiktad i olika nyanser av rött, orange och brunt. Närmare syntes att det fanns en liten landyta vid klippfoten, inte mer än 200 meter lång. Där låg ett litet hus, där öns ”Nature wardens” som sköter om ön och de forskare/biologer som för närvarande studerar djurlivet bor. Runt den lilla landplätten fanns en stig med informationsskyltar där vi kunde lära oss mer om öns sällsynta djurliv och natur.

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Två saker fasinerade oss extra mycket med den här ön. Det första var den sällsynta sälen – Lobos Marinos på portugisiska, Monkseal på engelska. Finns 30-40 stycken på Desertas och några hundra i medelhavet. Det skulle vara ovanligt att se dessa varelser i ankarviken så vi hade inte några förväntningar på det. Men rätt som det var dök det upp en! Det var det sötaste vattendjuret jag sett. Den var stor, kanske 2 meter lång, med ett ansikte som en liten hund med långa ögonfransar och morrhår. Den gned sig mot båten och tittade oss i ögonen. Wow sa jag och Sofia, lyckliga som små barn på julafton.

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Timoty missade just den här sälen (men fick se dem på längre avstånd) då han var upptagen med nästa facinerade grej. Han var på roddtur med Dolly Parton och kom tillbaka helt lyrisk. ”Hörrni!! Jag har hittat en grotta, vi måste åka dit!!”. Sagt och gjort. Det var som en lång gång med låg tak. Vi försäkrade oss om att tidvattnet var på väg ner så att vi inte skulle fastna där inne, men utrustade oss med kniv ifall vi skulle klämmas fast. Då hade vi kunnat skära hål i gummibåten och simmat ut. När vi kom fram till grottmynningen var den inte tillräckligt bred för att ro igenom. Som tur var låg berget så nära våra huvuden att vi kunde sträcka upp armarna och dra oss in. Vatten var kristallklart. Längre in lyste turkosblått vatten som skvallrade om att det fanns en öppning på andra sidan. Vågorna som dundrade in där framme skapade ett eko som lät som ett lejonvrål. På helspänn drog vi oss fram med våra händer längs taket, längre in i det mystiska spännande. Efter 20-30 meter öppnade grottan upp sig som en kupol. Ett hål i några meter upp längs ena väggen släppte in solen som en stor strålkastare. Det här kan vi kalla definitionen av en perfekt grotta. Vi var så överrumplade av denna hemliga, magiska plats som naturen skapat alldeles själv. Perfektion. Ett liten gång, för låg för att ta sig igenom ledde ut åt andra hållet. Vi vände åter samma väg som vi kom med tre stora leenden på läpparna. Wow.

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Det var lugna och sköna dagar med mycket bad på Desertas. Efter tjat om kanelbullar i två månader slog vi äntligen slag i saken och bakade sextiofem kanel- och vaniljbullar. Det tog ungefär en hel dag. Det var svettigt, barbröstat och det luktade sjukligt gott i hela ankarviken vill jag lova. Att ha färska, hembakade bullar på överseglingen till Kanarieöarna var guld värt.

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Ju längre vi kommer desto mer justerar vi vårt förhållande till tid och distanser. Drygt två dygn från Madeira till Kanarieöarna var väl ingen sträcka. Ibland skrattar vi åt oss själva när vi tänker på hur långt det kändes att segla från Hammarö till Djurö i Vänern. En sträcka på ca 30 sjömil som vi upplevde som en halv evighet. Att segla i flera dygn är en speciell känsla. Härligt, avslappnande. Trots att månen bara är halv lyser den upp en bred silverfärgad gata på den ojämna vattenytan. I horisonten I motsatt riktning skymtar lanternorna från ett lastfartyg. Vi är omringade av 3000 meters djup så långt ögat kan nå. Havet är högljutt och vinden stark. Bakgrundsbelysta moln döljer fläckvis den annars så klara stjärnhimlen. Som ett transparent skynke, nerstänkt med färg. Plötsligt välts färgburken ut över skynket och mörkret tar över. Ljusbringaren kämpar för att tränga sig igenom den tjocka massan, men lyckas inte riktigt. Fartyget passerar på behörigt avstånd i den mörka natten.

Enligt våra beräknar skulle vi nå Lanzarote på lördag förmiddag, med fina vindar gav oss en jävla fart så vi var framme fredag kväll. Våran pilotbok är från 2011 och likaså våra sjökort. Vi siktade mot Arrecife och där skulle en ny hamn enligt boken påbörjas lagom till boken trycktes. Det betydde att det fanns en ny hamn här, Marina Lanzarote, som inte fanns med i vår navigationsbok eller på våra sjökort. Det fanns också en rekommendation att inte gå in i den gamla hamnen under natten, därav planerade vi att anlända i dagsljus. Men, som sagt att det svårt att kontrollera vinden så där kom vi fram, precis när mörkret hade lagt sig. Det såg dock upplyst ut så vi tänkte att vi nog skulle klara detta, utan radar dessutom. Vi rundade upp en stor och välbelyskaj och siktade mellan gröna och röda sken. Seglena togs ned och Timoty styrde manuellt, middagen var precis klar. Rätt som det var dyker det upp en betongkaj ett tiotal meter framför oss, obelyst och inte mer en 1,5 meter över vattenytan. En snabb babordskir och vi undkom en total katastrof. Tur att vi inte hunnit kopplat autopilioten och slappnat av. Den låga, hemliga kajen var en förlängning till den gamla höga upplysta kajen. Den nya, ej upplysta kajen, fanns inte med i våra sjökort. Och inte heller gick den att se i mörkret. Efter en nästan-krock slog vi på radarn och tog oss in mellan prickarna utan problem, men med fullt fokus.

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Jag och Sofia hade planerat att ta dykcert på resan, åtminstonde innan vi lämnade Karibien. Eftersom vi hade lite tid att döda på Lanzarote och att det var det billigaste dykcentret vi hittade, bestämde vi oss för att det var dags. Vi åkte till doktorn och fick intyg, började intensivt plugga teorin online och försökte mentalt förbereda oss för att dyka i dagarna tre. Första dagen gick vi upp klockan 6, tog bussen, kom dit en timme för tidigt, somnade på en parkbänk, vaknade och insåg att vi var på fel ställe och kom därför lite för sent istället. Shit happens. Vi möttas av två supertrevliga dykinstruktören som skulle göra oss till dykproffs. Första dykdagen var intensiv men lärorikt. De tog oss direkt till havet, så vi slapp börja i en pool. Med bara oss två newbies och två instruktörer hade vi typ en var. Och tur var väl det. Det är inte så lätt som det ser ut att dyka. Innan vi fattat grejen med hur vi skulle göra oss ”tyngdlösa” skönk vi antingen som stenar eller flöt upp som korkar. När vi befann oss nere längst botten kunde jag rätt som det var flyta iväg och upp helt okontrollerat och Fia likaså fast åt andra hållet. Då fick instruktörerna jaga rätt på oss, ta tag i foten och dra ner oss på rätt köl igen. Det var som att ta hand om två ungar som kutar åt olika håll på Ikea. Andra grupper som dök på samma ställe kunde vara flera stycken elever per instruktör. Jag förstår fortfarande inte hur de kan klara av det. Övningen ger dock färdighet. När vi fått in snitsen kunde vi njuta av den magiska känslan att vara tyngdlös, styra sin flytkraft med andningen och uppleva undervattenslivet på 18 meters djup. En helt ny värld har öppnat sig för oss och våra vyer har vidgats med en ny dimension. Som nybakade undervattensambassadörer är vi riktigt taggade att få dyka i de exotiska vatten som vi har framför oss.

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Vår underbara dykinstruktör Virginia fyllde år och bjöd med oss alla tre på födelsedagsfest. Klockan 10:00 en lördag samlades cirka 40 mer eller mindre karnevalklädda personer för att åka buss till norra Lanzarote, ta färjan över till ön Graciosas och därifrån åka iväg på en katamaran. En typsikt sån där turistbåt som stör skiten ur långfärdseglare i en annars fridfull ankarvik. Nu var vi alltså på andra sidan. Timoty skämdes lite men vi hade riktigt kul med bad, fri bar, tapas och sköna människor.

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Med tanke på att Atlanten-överfarten börjar närma sig är det viktigt att båten fixas upp till topskick. En låååång lista på saker att göra hade skrivits och det var dags att sluta skjuta upp dem och börja jobba. Ett solskydd byggdes av en rullgardin från Ikea och en upphittad planka, ankarkättningen märktes ut, linor rengjordes, båten spolades av, vindrodret smörjdes och riggen inspekterades. När jag var uppe i masttoppen och letade efter skavanker gjorde jag en fasansfull upptäckt. Bågen som genua-och spinnarfallet var fasta i hade gått av och det går inte att byta den underifrån, upphissad i maststolen. Med andra ord skulle vi behöva ta ner masten för att kunna montera en ny. Och skulle inte en ny också gå sönder till slut under den hårda belastningen? En gemensam uppgiven suck gav sig i uttryck innan Timoty kom på en annan lösning. Vi fick en resvervdel levererad, kunde montera den utan att behöva ta ner hela skiten och hoppas att vi nu kan segla vidare utan problem.

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Våra vänner på Ultimo som vi inte sett sedan Cascais kom in i marinan och vi bjöd dem på middag á la Aela. Det vill säga kylskåpsfri mat. Och er som undrar vad man nu kan hitta på utan kyl kan jag tala om att vi serverade hembakade tortillabröd med hummus och tomatsalsa till förätt, friterad potatis, sesampanerade kikärtsbiffar och ugnsrostad butternut-pumpa till huvudrätt samt kanelbullekladdbaka till efterrätt. Eftersom det var kanelbullens dag fuskade vi lite och köpte rikigt smör och riktigt grädde till efterrätten, men annars så var det alltså helt kylskåpsfritt. Med lite fantasi kommer man långt. Och det bästa av allt – våra gäster tog med iskall öl. Tusen tack för en riktigt trevlig kväll!

Fler vänner anlände till marinan och vi hann skvallra lite med segelbåtarna Bengt och Yasmine innan det var dags att bege oss vidare. Efter två veckor i samma marina är det skönt att röra på påkarna. Mot Fuerte Ventura!

/Emmie

177 reaktion på “Från Madeira till Lanzarote”

  1. Så häftigt med dykningen!!
    Jag fick se film från grott-turen hos Fia igår, så kul att ni filmar 🙂 puss på er!!

    1. Ja det var sjukt coolt, kanske du ska dyka med oss i Karibien?! Vad kul!! Ska se om jag kan klippa ihop lite filmer och lägga på Youtube så småningom 😉 puss!!!

  2. Tack snälla ni middagen var underbar
    Lycka till nu om vi inte ses innan vi är ”over there” – segla lugnt⛵️⛵️⛵️
    Kram från Ultimo

    1. Tack själva!! Ja, tack detsamma! Men vi förväntar oss att ni swishar förbi oss med ert parasail där ute på Atlanten 😉 fair winds! Kram från Aela

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